as we had a dry winter day I took the cars
out of the garage - they fired right up
after some months of sleeping
the Mark III was moved to the back of the
garage, so that I can start working on the
other cars first
little Elliot loves Daddy´s cars as well
;-)
You
can find all the pictures of the show
here:
http://www.cadillac-meeting.com/english/pictures/pictures.html
My 1971 Continental Mark III just before
the start of the cruising tour.
The cars are gathering for the cruising
tour
Lucky repaired the fuel pump of my 58
Seville 30 minutes before the start of the
cruising tour - Thank you Lucky!!!!
My friends Claudia and Tayfun drove my 58
Eldorado Seville
one of the many awesome cars at the show -
1958 Eldorado Brougham # 535 - my dream car
a small overview of a part of the show
field at the Kremsegg castle
You
can find all the pictures of the show
here:
http://www.cadillac-meeting.com/english/pictures/pictures.html
My 67 Eldorado is temporarily stored at my
friend Richards garage until I find a
solution for my storage problems - thanks
Rick!
The Mark III needed the full treatment as
it was very dirty from its long journey
from the United States to Europe. It needed
a complete interior treatment along with
lots of paint detailing to look great
again. So we worked until 1am in the
morning each day. During these few days we
had the highest August temperatures ever
recorded, so a lot of sweat was produced...
My friend Tayfun in the garage polishing
the paint - around midnight...
in the middle of the night - we set up some
film light...
Tayfun wet - cleaning the interior
Tayfun cleaning the interior
wet-cleaning the interior
the hubcaps were cleaned in the dish washer
- my wife was not very happy about this...
as you can see it was squeezed in pretty
closely into the truck - watch the beam
just above the vinyl top...
The damaged “Cavalry Twill Vinyl“ roof
my first ride in the Lincoln
at home - saying “Hello“ to the Cadillacs
in front of the garage
in my old garage - together with our
Roadmaster
first sunset in Austria
dressed for the first night...
at the restoration shop - awaiting
inspection
at work in Richards garage around
midnight... In the background Richards 65
Impala and Alex´s 63 Riviera in the
front...
unpacking the new shocks
Richard and me at work
unscrewing the old shocks
figuring out how to mount the new Monroe
shocks...
the left shock just did not want to come
out...
backing out of Richards garage...

The new factory correct POA valve.
Internally it was calibrated for the use of
R134 instead of R12. The expansion valve
was also replaced together with the
evaporator, condenser, compressor, O-rings,
filter-dryer. I did not install a hi/lo
pressure switch which would cycle the
compressor on and off to keep the car
original.
the windlace before
and after it was replaced...
The old connectors were soldered to the new
replacement speakers
The old speakers
The new speaker installed on the drivers
side...
...and the passenger side
The new trunk carpet - perfectly installed
by Skip
The new trunk carpet - perfectly installed
by Skip
The new trunk carpet - perfectly installed
by Skip
the foam underneath the drivers side was
crumbling
pretty big hole
not much left
the new seat padding under construction
the finished new seat padding
“Sometimes the dash control can be switched to the fog or ice positions to bring the blower motor on and then when it is switched back to auto the blower may stay on and the system seems to work fine until the car is shut off. If the vacuum leak is only moderate there may be enough vacuum to hold the master switch closed once it gets , but not enough to pull it closed in the first place. When the dash control is switched to fog or ice, it assumes the air temperature is cold and that the engine is not yet warmed up, but that the blower is needed immediately for defrosting the windshield. So it supplies vacuum to the master switch through another circuit, bypassing the temperature controlled vacuum switch on the heater core shutoff valve on the right fender well. This source of vacuum is enough to close the master switch.When the dash control is switched back to auto this vacuum source is shut off, but there may be just enough vacuum left from other circuits to hold the switch closed. This routine will work for a while but as the leak gets worse, there won’t be enough vacuum left to hold the master switch closed anymore and the blower will shut off again as soon as the system is switched back to auto.With these symptoms and behavior the problem is most likely the power servo. This is half the brains of the system; the other half is the control panel in the dash. The power servo is controlled by a varying vacuum signal from the transducer. This vacuum supply is a completely separate circuit from that which supplies vacuum to the master switch. High vacuum moves the servo to the maximum heater position, and with low vacuum, a return spring moves it to the maximum AC position. In between these two extremes, it regulates the air temperature door to blend warm air and cool air, and simultaneously regulates the blower speed. It also spins an internal rotary vacuum valve back and forth that makes various connections between the several small vacuum lines on the top. This rotary valve controls the various vacuum motors of the system that operate the AC, heater, and defrost functions. It is this rotary valve that goes bad. l have seen these things visibly warped, and very badly so. It must be caused by engine heat, because there is also one inside the car on the control panel that is moved back and forth by the dash control lever, but that one seldom seems to cause any trouble. A warped rotary valve leaks all kinds of vacuum and the first part of the system to be affected by low vacuum is the master switch; there’s not enough vacuum there to close it and turn on the blower. To verify this is the problem, take some spare vacuum line, some scraps of 1/8 inch pressure line (like for air shocks), and a vacuum T and manually make the connections that the rotary valve should make in the maximum AC position. The connections that the rotary valve makes in various positions are shown in the factory shop manual. Disconnect the black connector with the striped vacuum lines from the power servo. Connect the yellow, red, and purple lines together with a T; also connect the tan and blue lines together and connect the orange and green lines together. If this rotary valve is the one and only culprit the AC will now work beautifully and the blower motor will come on every time, like magic. With the dash control on high the system should be recirculating air and there will be a lot of air noise coming from under the right side of the dash; when the dash control is moved to auto the air door should move to provide fresh air and the system will become much quieter. Of course with these manual connections the system is not fully automatic and the heater won’t work right at all, however this is enough to diagnose the problem.“
So this rotary valve needed to be
repaired...
I removed it from the power servo and
disassembled everything.
The removed power servo
after opening the cover, you can see the
rotary valve in the lower center.
remove one screw and a clip and the rotary
valve comes out.
The rotary valve consists of two halves
which make the connections - as you can see
it was very dirty and rough - and slightly
warped.
I started to wet sand both halves with 800
grit sandpaper.
when everything was flat and shiny again I
used some 2000 grit sandpaper for a perfect
finish.
looks shiny and flat again
Make sure that none of the ports are
clogged - I used compressed air to clean
everything.
When you put
the two halves together lubricate with WD40
to make sure that when you put them back
into the power servo that they are properly
held together with the underlying spring.
After I reinstalled them into my cars -
almost everything worked as it should. In
the 67 Eldorado I still had the problem
that in the “AUTO“ position the fan would
always be slow - so I knew that the control
head in the dash had a problem with the
“LOW - AUTO“ switch as well.
In the 67 DeVille the “VENT“ and “LOW“
position still did not work at all...
So I switched the control panels between
the two cars and suddenly everything in the
67 Eldorado worked perfectly. I never had
such a perfectly working system before. Its
like it just left the factory!
In the DeVille I still had no “VENT“ and
“LOW“ settings working... So out came the
control panels again... (its a pain in the
a*** to remove and install them...)
As it turned out the “LOW-AUTO“ switch on
one panel was stuck in the “LOW“ position.
You can easily remove it and readjust it to
work again - sorry I forgot to take
pictures. Make sure that all switches on
the control head are adjusted properly or
they wont work as they should!
So I knew that both control heads were
working correctly by installing it back to
the 67 Eldorado and the other panel back to
the 67 DeVille.
While the 67 Eldorado was perfectly fixed
now with everything working as it should -
the 67 DeVille was still giving me the
problem with a non working “VENT“
position...
I studied the shop manual for hours and
could not find what the problem could be. I
knew that the power servo was working
perfectly now and I knew that the control
head was in perfectly working order as
well. I verified this once again by
switching these parts between the cars once
again and everything worked as it should in
the Eldorado but not in the DeVille.. I´m
really good in switching these parts
between my cars now ;-)
I started to look for electric connection
problems and finally found out that no
electricity was coming out of one of the
three power servo connectors, but I did not
know why...
After I removed the power servo once again
to re-check it again it struck me - one of
the pins was slightly bent and the wire
connector did not make proper contact. This
problem was not visible with the power
servo installed in the car. It took me 2
long nights to find this little flaw... I
just bent it straight and everything works
as it should on both of my 67 Cadillacs.
Now I have to recharge the systems and I
should have perfectly working AC again... I
will also install new dryers and a
re-calibrated R134 POA valve before the
recharge.
One the one hand the 1967 ACC is very
complicated but once you know how it works
its pretty easy to fix. The rotary valve in
the power servo is pretty easy to
refurbish, the dash servo valve is riveted
together unfortunately, so its not such an
easy fix, but NOS valves are still
available at “Classic Auto Air“
the 67 Eldorado in front of the garage
after the AC system was fixed.
the removed dash
the RediRad system! Great stuff!
the replacement speaker and the original
one
the new speakers with the old one
the Eldorado is coming close to the 28k
mark... Still a low mileage car ;-)
the old unit and the dropped tank
the old unit with the fuel pump removed
the new fuel sending unit when it
arrived
the Eldo at the shop.
I took my little son with me to show him
whats going on in the restoration shop -
this is a custom 1959
Eldorado Biarritz project - you can find
more info here!
Looking at so many cool cars made little
Elliot very thirsty. Here he is having his
milk in the shop.
My friend Tayfun polishing the paint
it took 7 steps for a smooth surface...
on the left the original actuator - on the
right the reproduction unit from a 1969
Camaro RS
The different rod ends - the original one
on the left - the headlight door mechanism
is installed in the center of the rod end
with a pin.
On the Camaro unit one could probably
install it on the side using a bushing.
I´ve heard that this worked fine for some
Eldorado owners as you can see on the
picture below.
This is how it worked for another Eldorado
owner - he installed some bushings on the
new unit.
I found this picture on ebay at the auction
for a 1967 Eldorado recently.

the
shim was installed first and then the
carb - thats wrong! The gasket has to
go on the intake manifold first - then
comes the metal shim.

here you can see the burnt gasket and the
metal shim

putting everything back together again

test drive after the repair -
perfect!
as I could not start the car we had to
winch it up onto the trailer
its pretty heavy...
almost up...
good bye!
my friend Richard drilling out the snapped
off bolts...
Normally the thermostat is in there. You
can see the mounting holes from where we
drilled out the bolts. Unfortunately the
threads did not survive this
treatment...
the seat transmission disassembled - you
can see the brownish old grease everywhere
part of the gear and the solenoids
the transmission part
the three solenoids
the cleaned and re-greased transmission
This is how the doorjamb switch looks like
on a 1967 Eldorado when removed. Sorry for
the crappy cell phone picture!
I will have to clean the paint in the
doorjambs soon as you can see in this
picture...
While the Eldorados were outside the garage
my wife used the opportunity to shoot a
couple of pictures she had in her mind,
which she is planning to hang into the kids
room. Cant wait until the medium format
film is back from the photo lab. Below you
can see only some digital snap shots I
took.
Despite the last two unusual warm and
beautiful days unfortunately winter is not
over yet here in Austria, as some more snow
is predicted for next week and the cars are
back in the garage desperately waiting for
April to come...
the Eldorado is enjoying some sun rays for
the first time this year
although she is 7 months pregnant, my wife
Afra is still climbing ladders to get the
best angle for her shots...
the two Eldorados in front of the garage
where the snow has just melted away.
I removed the kick panel, heater-box and
door sill scuff plates to get access to the
broken cables.
they broke at the area where all the
bending is taking place when the door is
opened. Here the first wire is already
soldered together
I put some heat shrinking tube around it
after soldering
just to be sure I wrapped some more
electric tape around it
all the wires are back together
the wires are back together in the metallic
tube going through the door
kick panel and everything else back in
place. Everything works as it should now.
as I work as a cameraman I had a good film
light at hand to light the working area
properly.
as seen from the passenger side
from the front
from the left
The whole AC unit has to be removed to get
access to the evaporator and heater core...
The slight surface rust that showed up
where the gaskets were, was removed as well
of course...
The big hole on the left is where the
blower motor is installed.
this is where the AC box usually is
installed
you can see how much has be removed just to
get to the evaporator and heater core...
I discovered the first issue at the hot
water valve
the hoses around the time relay delay were
leaking a little bit
for testing purposes I hung a spare master
vacuum switch into the car - this solved
the problem
the old fast idle diaphragm was leaking and
brittle and was replaced with a better
one...
the 1967 Cadillac Automatic Climate Control
Vacuum Schematic from the shop manual -
1968 is almost identical BTW... Click on
the image for a larger view!
there are lots and lots of vacuum hoses in
the Eldorado to check - here are only a few
going to the storage tanks...
I will also give them a good cleaning
during the winter.
the new hose with the painted red stripe is
already in place - looks some kind of
original...
the 1967 Eldorado at the lift of American
Special Parts - the trunk is full of parts
look how clean the 429 engine looks inside
- it only has 27k miles on it - the valve
covers will get a repaint and new gaskets
will be installed
the radiator is out for a re-core
the left front disc brake is sticking a
little - it will be completely overhauled
as well soon.
Some of the parts - the old ball joints are
out. New brake hoses and brake parts are
waiting for installation.
a new H4 headlight had to be installed as
the original T3 headlights are not street
legal in Austria
Thats the area behind one of the 1958
Eldorado kick panels where the cables have
to bend all the time. After 51 years they
seem to get tired.
The 1967
Eldorado is now at the restoration shop -
here it is on the side of a nice low
mileage 1971 Lincoln Mark III.
As I finally want to be able to drive the
Eldorado on our roads, today I delivered
the Eldorado to my restoration job, where
they will do some of the necessary
conversions and repairs. They already
helped me with my 67 Deville and the 58
Eldorado.
The Eldorado will now get a new radiator as
the original one is leaking badly. Actually
I will have the original one recored and
repaired. The front disc brake will get an
overhaul due to a partly sticking piston,
together with all new brake hoses. The fuel
line will be replaced as it started to leak
as well. The lower ball joints and the
idler arm will get exchanged along with
some rubber bushings. Besides of this list
of repairs the rear lights will be
converted for the inspection.
After the Eldorado is back in perfectly
working condition, the inspector will check
the car and hopefully approve it...
Unfortunately until all this will be done
it will take some time, and the winter is
just around the corner - so it will go
right back in winter storage after this
procedure.
the new original style spring clamp battery
cables
a new used ALC control valve is also in
place.
The first few parts that arrived - belts,
filters, gaskets, caliper repair kits,
dryer, pitman arm, air filter and some
other stuff....
the green wire once was a fusible link - it
fell into pieces when I slightly pulled on
it
As a follow-up
Glen recommended the
following:
“You
might want to look closely at the break in
the link. See if it is melted or did was it
broken by mechanical means. If it was just
pulled apart or cut then you have to check
what caused that. To trouble shoot
this if it was actually melted due to over
current, I would unplug the headlights and
front parking lights, and temporarily
connect a headlight or other big light
bulb, in place of the fusible link. You can
then try things without blowing fuses. With
the troubleshooting light in place it will
light up brightly if there is a direct
short. With the headlights and front
parking lights disconnected the test light
should not light up at all under any
condition. You should be able to move
change the position of the headlight
switch, switch from high to low beam (light
switch in the headlight position); wiggle
the wire harness anywhere and not light up
the test light. If it does you have found
the short.”
I did this
procedure today but it did not show any
shorts. I then reconnected the front lights
and everything did work again. I will now
have to find a replacement fusible link
which is very uncommon over here in Europe.
I will replace it together with the
positive battery cable where the clamp is
almost falling apart. I hope the issue wont
come back. It looks like the fusible link
maybe only fell apart due to age as it did
not show any signs of burning. Its located
very close to the starter and the exhaust
manifold - so maybe 42 years of dirt and
heat just made it crumble into pieces....
the completely removed positive battery
cable harness
the original battery clamp - its already
missing the spring part
The starting circuit diagram is showing the
battery cables - Click for larger picture!
The Iginition and Starter Circuit Diagram
for the Eldorado (693) and the other
Cadillacs of 1967.
Click for larger version!
in the shop at American
Special Parts in Wels

checking the rear drums - crappy cell phone
picture...
the rear drums
the removed brake booster - the hole in the
firewall
the new booster needed some paint before
installation
painting the master cylinder
Tayfun painting the primered booster
reinstalling the whole unit
Tayfun bleeding the brakes
finished - looking good
The Eldorado is lurking out of the garage
washing and brushing the original rubber
floormats...
...they turned out as if they just left the
factory - awesome - this Meguiars rubber
treatment is more than fantastic!
Tayfun - wet cleaning the carpet and trunk
- looks like new now as well - the low
miles are showing on the interior pretty
well
My buddy Tayfun polishing the hood
Tayfun at work
The hood´s paint came out really fine and
smooth - unfortunately we ran out of time
and could not finish the rest of the
paint
removing the dash
the removed dash
removing the radio buttons was the easiest
part
Afra repairing the wiring of the old radio
Thats the area which showed the most wear -
looking perfect now!
the same area before detailing
the interior is back together and now
waiting for the cruising season
Today I
disassembled the rest of the front
suspension and cleaned all the parts before
they will be sandblasted. Tomorrow I will
finish them and give them to my buddy
Richard for sandblasting.
the brakes before I disassembled them - I
hope I can clean the small metal parts with
an ultrasonic cleaner
all these parts will be sandblasted and
painted afterwards
the power servo
the power servo and master switch
the electrical circuit of the Air
Conditioning system of the 1967 Cadillac
DeVille in a digram
After cleaning
we had a nice cruising trip around the lake
with friends and our ladies.
Tayfun
on a hill
the ladies
Alex
Tayfun
Richard
I took the 67


as you can see - no damage occurred!
looking nice and shiny!